Off season means rock climbing and training. Since Adidas Rockstars, my last competition in 2017, I’ve been rock climbing as often as possible. I really enjoy spending time in nature, the simple lifestyle, waking up in the van and just go climbing all day long.
Pamplemousse 8A ( V10)
This line is among the most unique rock features in one of the most beautiful places on earth. Spiral rock layers with small crimps and a little pinch in a overhanging wall, make this climb one of my favorites. David Firnenburg easily flashed it and showed me how it’s done. First I did every move separately and felt really confident. I decided to give it a try and surprised myself by sending it in my third try already. It may not be the hardest of it’s grade, but in my view one of the nicest.
Entwash 8A/+ (V11/12)
Entwash is the hardest boulder I’ve done so far. Steep climbing, starting with compression moves on slopers, followed by pretty long moves on crimps. I could climb the first and the final part, but there was one move in the middle, where I just didn’t succeed. I tried it over and over again and either my heel hook slipped or I didn’t have the strength to hold the crimp. It happened when David told me, that we would have to leave in 15 minutes. I didn’t have great expectations when I did a few more tries, practising the moves, so that I could come back and do it the next time. Whatsoever, being totally focused on the climb and the movements I suddenly stuck the key move.
Finish it off! hold on! hold on! Stay focused!
I was saying to myself. And then I stood on the top of the boulder, realizing I just did something, I’d never thought, I’d be able to do. That feeling is overwhelming and moments like this make climbing even more exciting.
After Pamplemousse and Entwash I also sent Molonk 7C and Black Pearl 7C+/8A. Brione is such a lovely place and one of my favorite bouldering areas. I will be back soon – there are still many hard and beautiful boulders waiting for me.
Kirk Windstein 7C+ (V10)
I’m really proud about my sending of Kirk Windstein 7C+ in Cresciano. Even though it is only graded 7C+ it was one of the harder, if not the hardest, I’ve climbed so far. The most difficult part is a reachy shoulder move to the left and if you are too small, to use the big foothold it’s pretty hard to push with your feet and pull far enough with your right hand. The rest of the climb is just extremely crimpy, but not too far. I tried Kirk twice, however, I could just give it around 5 tries each day, until my shoulders were tired and my fingers hurt. I knew I could climb it. I just needed a restday before and do it when I felt fresh and recovered. I climbed it in my mind over and over again. The day I tried it again, I sent it in my first try.
Another three classics I sent in Cresciano, are Hannibal Lecter 7B+, La Pioche 7B+ and U-turn 7B.
The arrete with the pocket 8A (V11)
The arrete with the pocket is a beautiful 8A in Chironico. Slopers, pinches, crimps and pocket – all in one. A must do.
Here’s a short video of my latest ascents.
Cheers and keep climbing! Andrea
Sponsors: Schweizer Sporthilfe, Mammut, Scarpa, Neprosport, Frictionlabs and Bächli Bergsport.