My first time in Magicwood and my first two 8A’s

01.04.17

Believe me or not, I’ve never been to Magicwood before. Even though the world famous bouldering area is only a 2.5 driving hours away from my home. Last week I finally got to see this magical forest and climb on its beautiful rocks. My one-day trip to Magicwood was a blast and quite successful.

My main goal for this short trip was to find some hard boulder problems I could work on durning this season. I’ve never done a boulder project before and it was high time that I started pushing my limits outdoors as well. Moreover my goal for 2017 was to climb my first 8A boulder.

The first boulder I tried was Right hand to darkness 7C+/8A. The overhang is nearly horizontal and you start with an open jug. Then a far move to a small crimp with the right hand, left heelhook on the starting hold, going into an undercling 2-finger-pocket with the left hand, small jump to an open pocket, holding the swing with one arm and don’t dab;). The following and last 10 moves are easier.

The first move was no problem and after I had figured out how to heelhook without squeezing my foot on my finger, I managed the second move to the 2-finger pocket as well. I was too short to do the dynamic move without my feet coming off, so I had to jump and hold the swing with only one arm. That was the hardest part for me. After failing around ten times, I decided to try the rest of the climb. Luckily I like crimps, hooks and good holds – so no big problem. After a few further goes I finally sticked the jump and finished it off. I surprised myself by doing a problem of that grade so fast and I was even more curious about how hard I could boulder outdoors. – So, next boulder, next grade. My choice was Foxy Lady 8A.

For me, the second part of Foxy Lady was harder than the beginning with the famous shoulder move. I always fell reaching for the sharp crimp after the crossing move. Also the following move to the final jug was quite far for me. I fell 2 times while matching the final jug after the hard part of the problem. I knew I could climb it. After a little rest I climbed the hard sequence a third time and topped out. You will find the video in my video gallery.

It was an amazing day and I really enjoyed exploring this beautiful area and spending time in the natural surroundings – good vibes make climbing hard definitely easier.

Videoclip Foxy Lady 8A: