Lead 25th place
Speed 20th place
The worldcup in Nanjing was definitely a hot one. 30 degrees celsius, black mats and no shadow. The men’s qualification started in the morning and the women’s was due to start at 3 pm. Just as I left the hotel and wanted to take the shuttle bus to the competition area, we were told that our qualification had been postponed to 7 pm. On the one hand this was a good message because we didn’t have to climb in the heat and fall down on burning mats (well, maybe that would have pushed me even more to get up the problems) but on the other hand the whole focus breaks down. You have to wait for another 4 hours and then start the preparation routine all over again. However a good climber does not only have a big biceps, he also has a good mindset. She has to deal with situations like this, accept it and get the best thing out of it. That’s what I said to myself and I stayed cool.
When I was out for the first Boulder it was already dark and the temperatures were a lot better than in the afternoon.
The problems in Nanjing were rather «old school»: Static climbing and just a few dynamic or coordinative moves. The holds were really slippery and seemed to be old. Unfortunately, I didn’t find the correct solution right away in 2 of the 5 boulders and wasted a few tries. On one boulder I fell off during the last move on my flash attempt. I was so pumped afterwards that I didn’t get that high up again. The last Problem was a slab with a tricky jump and I am happy that I sticked it already in my third try. In the end I finished 25th.
The speed worldcup the day after was much fun even though it was 35 degrees and we were climbing in the sun. As a boulderer competing against all those professional speed climbers, I felt no pressure at all. I finished in the 20th place with a time of 11.63 seconds.
Here’s the videoclip about Nanjing: